Dangerous Fun
The Social Lives of Big Wave Surfers
This ethnography delves into the vibrant community of big-wave surfers in Hawaii, particularly at Oahu’s Waimea Bay, where elite surfers gather to challenge their physical strength and courage. Sociologist Ugo Corte investigates how these surfers, through social interactions, create experiences of collective fun in a perilous environment. As both participant and observer, he highlights the dynamics between mentors, novices, and peers, illustrating how they inspire each other, nurture a lifestyle, and even monetize their passion for surfing. Corte explores the ways surfers build and uphold their reputations, adapting their strategies as they innovate, progress, and age. He posits that fun is a social phenomenon, fostering solidarity through the joy of self-actualization within a communal context. This shared enjoyment emerges from engaging in risky activities with unpredictable outcomes, leading to a unique form of group cohesion. Ultimately, Corte sheds light on the concepts of collective effervescence and emotional energy, examining the interaction rituals that culminate in pivotal moments of decision-making. These moments, once embraced, irrevocably alter an individual’s self-concept, offering profound insights into the interplay between risk, community, and identity in the world of big-wave surfing.
