Sicily

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Stand crater's-edge and gaze at the river of fire in Etna's Valle. Get serious about Mediterranean architecture with classical temples and bijou Byzantine chapels. Haggle hard and eat copiously at the island's raucous markets and rustic restaurants. Make like the movie stars with volcanic mud packs and seawater jacuzzis in the Aeolians. Locals tell it how it is, from anti-Mafia campaigners to traditional chocolatiers. Get off the beaten track with competition-beating information on volcano treks and rural residences. Don't just take our word for it, see what travellers are saying at lonelyplanet.com.